Stony Brook University 3 credits CIV
Basic hydrodynamics of water waves. Topics include linear wave theory, energy, power and energy propagation, wave refraction, shoaling and breaking in the nearshore, diffraction by breakwaters and gaps, reflection and basin oscillations, wave statistics and spectra, wind-wave hindcast/forecast, wave forces on piles and pipes. Some coastal processes due to nonlinearity, including wave set-up/set-down, nearshore circulations and storm surges. Physical interpretations of mathematical formulas are particularly emphasized. 3 credits Grading Letter graded (A, A-, B+, etc.)
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